The best of Marrakech and the Sahara
Lonely Planet named Morocco as one of the top ten destinations for 2020. We get that. Cause of an earlier visit to Marrakech and Agafay, but mainly because of our recent road trip. From the most instagrammable riads and the chaotic Medina of Marrakech to the serene tranquility of the Sahara and everything in between. Lonely Planet confirmed what we secretly knew all along: Morocco is hot.
Think along: the immense mountains of the Haute Atlas, cheerful Moroccans, a dusty but photogenic Game of Thrones film city - here and there a desert oasis and a night stay under a clear starry sky in the Sahara desert. It doesn’t get any better right? Well, actually it does. Because this adventure is less than 3.5 hours flight from Amsterdam. In six days from the Imperial City of Marrakech to the Sahara and back.
Day 1-2, Marrakech
The once city in Morocco that doesn’t require introduction is Marrakech. From the busy Medina where mopeds and donkeys run the show to the fragrant souks, the many rooftop restaurants and the musicians and vendors on the iconic Djemaa el Fna square: Marrakech fascinates. Visit the Yves Saint Laurent Museum with the adjacent Jardin Majorelle, head to brand new Plus61 (from the same team behind Marrakech’ restaurant hit Nomad) for dinner and call it a night at Kozybar, a multi story bar that serves alcohol. Leave all the craziness of Marrakech behind you in one of the many authentic riads, Morocco's interpretation of a guest house. Charming and affordable addresses here are Riad Dar-K ,Le Medina Privilege and Dar Lalla F'Dila - where Josephine Baker stayed for a long time. Looking for something more top notch? Then check into El Fenn (pictured below). Also, if you are tempted in the souks to buy one of those handsome Berber rugs, wait until you are on your way to Boumalne Dades the day after tomorrow. Better prices for you and for the women who weave them.
Day 3, Marrakech - Aït Benhaddout - Boumalne Dades
After two days of pleasant chaos, it is time to exchange the city for picture perfect vistas, tropical oases and dusty desert villages. As soon as you leave Marrakech, the haute Atlas is literally at your feet. Winding roads lead you through the mountains and while your ears pop, the views become more spectaculair. Make sure to stop by one of the many roadside restaurants to enjoy the view from the terrace with a (too) strong Moroccan coffee.
About halfway through to today's final destination Boumalne Dades you’ll find the walled settlement of Aït Benhaddout. Formerly a strategic town on the caravan route that connected Marrakech to the Sahara, nowadays a tourist highlight, UNESCO World Heritage Site and prime filming location one. Game of Thrones, Prince of Persia and Gladiator are just a few of the movies that were filmed in the medieval-looking town of Aït Benhaddou. Moroccans from all over the country moved to the town to benefit from its success and now live in the new part of Aït Benhaddout, on the other side of the river. The old city itself is still inhabited by four families. Make sure to book a guided tour in the new part of the city, if possible with one of the families who live in the old city. Chances are big they will proudly show you their picture together with Will Smith or Khaleesi whilst serving you a mint tea in their Kasbah. Oh, and if you still want to buy a hand-woven Berber rug, now is the time.
Aït Benhaddout
From Aït Benhaddout it is another two and a half hours drive to today's final destination: Boumalne Dades. Besides the well-known Gorges du Dades, Boumalne Dades has little to offer, which makes it a great place just stay the night. A recommendation is Xaluca Dades hotel, with spacious rooms, an African-inspired interior, an outdoor swimming pool and views on the pastel pink and orange Dades valley. Make sure to check in before sunset so you can see the full sunset from the terrace.
Day 4, Boumalne Dades - Merzouga - Sahara
To get an understanding of the immense canyons that Morocco has, drive up to to Tinghir. Once there, take the R703 north and drive to the Tinghir Oasis and Todgha Gorges in less than 20 minutes. Here you literally stand between the walls of the orange-red canyons that rise up to to 400 meters. It is really not more than a nice photo opportunity, so don’t spend too much time here and head back to finish the rest of the (long) travel day to Merzouga and the Sahara desert. After Tinghir, take the well maintained N10 and R702 - a nice change on the rather boring highways. A nice stop on the 702 is the colorful souvenir shop on your right just before you enter the village of Melaab. This is the place for traditional Moroccan clothing and robes. From Melaab it is another two hours to Merzouga.
The further you drive east, the drier and more expansive the landscape gets. You know you’re on the right way when you pass an occasional nomad settlement and some hordes of camels. But especially when the huge sandbanks of the Sahara loom in the distance.
In Merzouga (the gateway to the Sahara) you have the choice to sleep in a comfortable hotel in the town itself or to stay in one of the pretty tent camps in the Sahara desert. Both are of course also possible and is advisable if you have more time. If you choose to stay in Merzouga, then Riad Madu and Riad Chebbi are good options. Both with neat rooms, a swimming pool, a restaurant and activities in and around the Sahara. If you, like us, decide to spend a night in the Sahara, then go for the full experience and sleep in a luxury tent. Imperial Glory Lodges is highly recommended here with tents with their own shower, toilet, terrace and king-size bed with thick blankets for those cold desert nights. You simply check in at Nasser Palace, from where you will be driven to the camp by 4x4. Your stay includes a full dinner (for which you’ll have to dress up in a traditional kaftan - which will be waiting for you in your tent) and breakfast, a camel ride through the Sahara at sunset and in the evening a campfire with music under the starriest sky we've ever seen.
Sahara desert
Day 5, Sahara - Merzouga - Marrakech
Your rise and shine moment comes early today, because you’ll have a long travel day ahead. But also because you are in the middle of the Sahara and you want to see the sunrise. Trust us. The silhouette of the huge sandbanks changes from pitch black to dark blue in the early hours, to pastel pink and orange to finally stick to golden yellow as soon as the sun is up. And with a bit of luck you will also be treated to a trudging camel caravan passing by during this spectacle. It doesn't get more Nomadic than this.
Good, after an early breakfast at Imperial Glory lodges with freshly baked bread, homemade jam, warm Msemen, fresh orange juice and coffee and you're good to go. You will be driven by 4x4 from the camp back to Merzouga from where you’ll start your engines for a full day of driving back to Marrakech. We recommend making a short stop en-route in Rissani - a short 45 minute drive from Merzouga. Once an important gold town, now notable for the photogenic Mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, from the then ruling Alaouite Dynasty.
Mausoleum van Moulay Ali Cherif
From Rissani it is a good eight hours drive to Marrakech. A long, but impressive ride. If we may recommend: book a massage or (why not) a full hammam for when you return to Marrakech. No better way to end today’s long drive.
Day 6, home
Sleep in at your riad, dive into the souks for one last time, have lunch at the roof terrace of Café des Epices and soak up the chaos of the Jemaa el-Fna square one last time or take it easy and buy a day pass for the spa of the iconic La Mamounia hotel (approx EUR 50 p.p.).
For those who are not comfortable driving in Morocco: take a look at the Secret Escapes and TravelBird websites. they offer the above as a 5 and 7-day tours, including international flights, well-rated riads, luxury tents and shared or private (you choose) transfers by minibus.