Trancoso: a guide to Brazil’s bohemian beach resort
Trancoso’s ‘quadrado’
At times we’re looking back at some of our best past travels. The kind that left an impression and put back an instant smile on our faces. The tropical beach resort of Trancoso is one of those places. Colorful, authentic, simple but sophisticated and only a one hour flight away from the metropolis cities of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.
It’s not hard to fall for Trancoso. The laid-back bohemian beach resort in the tropical state of Bahia charms from the moment you drive into its tiny city center - about an hour and a half south of Port Seguro airport. While we drive over its cobblestone streets fringed with colorful restaurants, rustic pousadas with giant bougainvilleas hanging over its fences and beachy boutiques we instantly get why it’s named to be Brazil’s version of Tulum more than once. Though where Mexico’s equivalent has become unaffordable and somewhat pretentious over the past decade, Trancoso is still as easy-going as ever. The type of place you’d wish you could stay longer.
Bahian beach life in Trancoso
where to eat
The ‘quadrado’ is Trancoso’s car-free historic center and is dotted with colorful restaurants and boutiques that were once local fishermen’s homes - some today are still. All look out towards the large grassy square and the all-white Sao Joao Batista church overlooking the Atlantic. During its hot daytime hours we picture it to be the same sleepy town as it was decades ago, but after sunset the quadrado gets to life. The restaurants open their doors, musicians play bossa nova, kids play soccer in front of the church and handicraft stalls are being set up.
For dinner head to the oldest restaurant in town Silvana e Cia, where you’ll enjoy Bahian dishes (try one of the fish dishes served on a banana leaf) on a dreamy outdoor terrace under lantern-lit trees. A Trancoso-classic is Jacaré do Brazil, a jungle-like restaurant made of wood and filled with cosy corners with Brazilian and international food. Less sophisticated but just as tasty are the burgers at Sao Joao Batista Burgers and Pizza, named after the aforementioned all-white church (of which a logo is also artfully branded in each one of its buns). Expect good quality burgers (also vegan ones), pizzas, ice cold beers and often free live music from its neighboring restaurant. All-day breakfast, lunch and good quality coffees are served at Santo Café and for the best tapioca’s (Brazilian pancakes with sweet or savory toppings) in town find yourself a plastic stool at the TL-lit food truck of Tapioca da Sandra.
For dinner head to Silvana e Cia
where Bahian dishes are served al fresco under the lantern-lit trees
Where to stay
Whether it’s a charming pousada or a private villa with concierge: Trancoso has got you covered. With a dozen of options in dreamy hotels, ranging from affordable to top-notch luxury, the only hard choice will be which one to book. Let us help you get started. Casa da Vanessa is our most affordable pick. Located approx 3 km out of the city center this pousada is surrounded by tropical rainforest and boasts a total of four chalets, an outdoor pool and a restaurant. The chalets are comfortable but basic and come with one, two or three bedrooms, a kitchenette, airconditioning and free wifi. All with a private garden with a seating area and hammocks for those lazy afternoons.
Casa da Vanessa
Uxua Casa Hotel & Spa is the most high-end pick in Trancoso - perhaps even in all of Bahia. Its eleven ‘casas’ are located right at the quadrado. Half of the houses are former fishermen houses and all are carefully refurbished into boutique houses that reflect the true Bahian feel. Besides the hotel Uxua boasts a spa, a restaurant and a rustic beach lounge at Praia dos Nativos.
Looking for the comfort and discretion of your very own private villa? Casa Mia is where you want to stay at. A dream of a bohemian villa close to both Trancoso’s center and Praia dos Nativos. The villa comprises five suites, concierge service and an 18 (!) meters long infinity pool - all designed by Brazilian designer Marie Stella, who owns the jaw-dropping concept store Divino's at the quadrado.
Where to beach
The state of Bahia is home to some of the best beaches in the country. Wild, unspoiled Atlantic beaches where (with a bit of luck) its just you and the turquoise waters. Trancoso is no exception. The beach closest to the town center is Praia dos Nativos, a tropical slice of paradise with good beach bars (Uxua and Casa Timbo to name a few) with lounge beds, showers, food and strong caipirinhas. Looking to find it a bit more unspoiled? Just turn right as soon you walk up to Praia dos Nativos coming from the Praia dos Coquerios parking.
Recommendable for any Trancoso itinerary is a day trip to Restaurante da Praia das Tartarugas, located a 20 minutes drive north of Trancoso. This enchanting beach, set in front of orange-red cliffs and surrounded by nothing but nature, might just be our favorite. The small beach shack downstairs serves drinks and finger food, while the the stylish restaurant on top of the cliffs is the place to enjoy lunch and dinner. Expect a combination of Bahian and Mediterranean dishes with lots of seafood options.
Praia das Tartarugas
How to get there
The nearest airport is Porto Seguro, located about an hour and a half drive north of Trancoso. Direct flights are available from Salvador, Rio de Janeiro, Sao Paulo and Brasilia with TAM, GOL and Azul Airlines.